Restaurant Review

Montys of Kathmandu

John McKenna orders up the sekuwa and the Shiva beer in Monty's, Temple Bar's cult Nepalese restaurant.

Monty's of Kathmandu sounds like the sort of place you could do without - it sounds like some sort of rather dubious bar, doesn't it? - but if you love true, subtle, intelligent ethnic cooking, then you can't do without it at all. It's on Eustace Street, just down from the Film Centre, in Dublin's Temple Bar, and the inside has been decorated at the cost of half nothing, which tends to show especially in the bathrooms. Who cares: the staff are very friendly young Dublin guys, and the cooking is stonkingly good.

So, first a word of advice: if you are planning a visit tomorrow, call them now and order the great Nepalese Momo dumplings, which the menu advises must be ordered 24 hours in advance (montys@tinet.ie; or call them on (01) 670 4911).

Right, that's sorted, now what else should you be looking for? Well, adventurous souls will want kachela, raw minced lamb with garlic, ginger, herbs and spices which is served with a shot of whiskey. Elizabeth Field of this parish loves the sekuwa chatpate chicken, because "you taste all the elements of charcoal-grilled chicken with onions, tomatoes, chillies, lemon, masala spice mixture, and lots of fresh-chopped parsley, coriander and scallions". Prawn chata mari has tender, gingery sweet-sour prawns served on an authentically Nepali thin rice pancake, a dish whose finish is typical of the care this kitchen takes.

We raved about their superb kerau paneer, which showcases their own home-made paneer cheese, served with peas, onions, peppers and ginger. This is much the best paneer you can eat in Dublin, for they make it themselves and it shows in a fine, light texture. And their lamb pasanda - which unusually uses red wine in the sauce - is to die for. Breads, especially the terrific kulcha, where the nan is stuffed with vegetables, onions and chillies, is ace. There is a wine list, but beer buffs will want a bottle of the special Shiva beer brewed specially for the restaurant by the Celtic Brewing Company of Enfield in County Meath.

Monty's is a great ethnic restaurant.

Monty's of Kathmandu, 28 Eustace Street, Dublin 2 Tel: Tel: (01) 670 4911
Email: montys@tinet.ie
Website: www.montys.ie

Open 7 days, lunch and dinner.

email John and Sally | read other articles in this issue