Restaurant Review

Elizabeth Field applauds the newest incarnation of restaurateur Nisheeth Tak and Glasthule’s Eagle House.

Rasam, Glasthule

Nisheeth Tak has done it again. In the wake of his successful management of such progressive Indian restaurants as Saagar, Poppadum, Jaipur, and Vermilion, he has opened Rasam, as an owner this time. And it is a beautiful restaurant with terrific food, charming atmosphere, great service and true originality.

Walk up the stairs from the Eagle Pub, and you enter a magically seductive world: silky rose-coloured pillows, grey slate floor, gold burnished antique walls, dark teak tables, curvy, wine-coloured elongated lampshades juxtaposed with futuristic white egg-shaped ones, a lovely cushioned alcove for private dining, and glowing embers in a white marble-faced fireplace. Tall, handsome Nisheeth greets you and makes you feel like a guest in his own home.

As soon as you've been seated, come irresistible, crunchy cumin and coriander-laced "breadsticks" made from naan dough - a nice twist on pappadoms. The menu is not so much "Indian fusion" as a wide representation of dishes from all over the country: Goan fish cakes stuffed with pickled shrimps, served with mango chutney; beef tossed with pathar ke phool (a specially imported Indian herb), garam masala, and a pomegranate reduction, from Kerala; tender boneless lamb with aromatic spices from Kashmir.

We started with tandoori quail - a ginger and green chili-spiked marinated roulade offset by a fruity prune filling - and succulent stir-fried duck kathi kebab with orange and lettuce, served in thin, tortilla-like handkerchief bread.
Mains included the house specialty, chooza khaas makhni, an elegant and refined version of chicken tikka masala. Gosht awadh comprised savoury lamb chunks simmered in a subtle melon seed and fried onion gravy with coriander seeds. We couldn't resist ordering a mansahari thali - a complete little meal of small fish, chicken, lamb and vegetable dishes, served with steamed rice, raita, and chutney in little silver pots on a filigreed tray. The presentation is consistently lovely, featuring both simple white service bowls and artistically plated compositions.

I was less crazy about the dessert - a sweet, thick, putty-coloured kulfi (Indian ice cream) on a bed of steamed "vermicelli" pastry with sandalwood syrup. The tastes and textures were maybe too unfamiliar.

To his great credit, Nisheeth has kept his prices affordable. Dinner for 3 cost under €115. He's created a lush place where you can go and bask in the dining experience, preferably with friends, without breaking the bank.

Rasam, 18-19 Glasthule Road, Dun Laoghaire
Tel: (01) 230 0600 info@rasam.ie