Megabytes by John & Sally McKenna Vol 3 Issue 9
The Megabytes Awards for 2002
Person
of the Year: Dr Pat Wall
Pat Wall unravels all the clichés. He is a bureaucrat - chief executive of the Food Safety Authority, to be precise - with a raft of degrees and doctorates to his name, yet to listen to him speak about food safety is to hear a man who has wit, humanity and genuine understanding in his confident grasp. If you despair about the attitude of local, national and European governments to artisan and specialist food production, then listening to Dr Wall will restore your faith in government, and convince you that there is - there really is - someone in charge who understands all the complexities and fragilities which underlie Ireland's food culture.
Megabytes
We Shall Overcome Award: Toby Simmonds
Toby Simmonds took on the establishment big time in early 2002, when he challenged the seizure of his entire stock of Real Olive Co produce via the High Court. Mr Simmonds argued that ancient market rights in Bantry town had not been extinguished by the council, and the High Court upheld his claim every step of the way. Mr Simmond's bravery has created a hugely important precedent for the creation of further street and farmer's markets throughout the country and, meantime, the Bantry Friday market goes from strength. More power to his civil disobedience!
Cook
of the Year: Neven Maguire
Blacklion, God bless it, could stand as a definition of what we mean when we use the phrase: "a wide spot in the road". A stone's throw from the border in County Cavan, it is miniscule, missable, unmemorable, and possibly the most important food lover's destination in Ireland. That last bit is all on account of Neven Maguire. Chef, teacher, television cook, author, Mr Maguire is on a mighty roll, and his skills are drawing in folk from throughout Ireland to sample his extraordinary cooking: getting a table in the MacNean any weekend is very, very difficult indeed, for the room is always packed. See our feature of his new book in Megabytes, but above all, get yourself up to little Blacklion to eat contemporary Irish food at its magical finest.
Megabytes
Special Award: Mark Boyden of Streamscapes
Mark Boyden drafted the protocol for the first ever Irish presidia for Slow Food, the quartet of artisans who smoke wild Atlantic salmon. The document is an exemplary piece of work: learned; precise; expert, reflecting Mr Boyden's work with his Streamscapes project, an environmental education programme for schools, community groups and individuals. Salmon is the touchstone used by Mr Boyden to create a deeper understanding of the pressures on our environment. Mr Boyden's protocol is likely to be the template for all future Irish Slow Food Presidia. Oh, and you really should get Mr Boyden into your schools to show your children what conservation and environmentalism is all about. www.streamscapes.org
Artisan
of the Year: Frank Krawczyk
Frank Krawczyk cures his pork and makes his salamis in Dereenatra, Schull, West Cork, and whilst it is invidious to single out any one of his superb meat products, we would walk a country mile in the rain for a taste of his superlative pancetta. No matter what dish you use it with, Frank's pancetta improves it a zillion-fold. It is an exquisite food, and proof that there is no specialist food product beyond the grasp of Ireland's talented artisans. Email frankk@oceanfree.net
Cookery
Book of the Year: Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons, Diana Henry
Diana Henry hails from County Down, and her inspirational first book is one of the most exquisite, aesthetic cookery works to have appeared in years. Written with a poet's expressiveness and drawing on the sensual acknowledgement of a true artist, Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons is a masterpiece. Trust us: you can't live without this one.
Newcomer
of the Year: Coast, Tramore, Waterford
Jenny McNally and Turlough McNamara have created the hottest new destination in Irish food with their stylish, funky Coast, on the seafront at Tramore in east Waterford. A great room styled with chutzpah, great cooking from Ms McNally and a pulsing confidence in the entire operation means Coast is as hot as it gets, and their signature Coast Prawn Cocktail is set fair to be the dish of 2003.
email John and Sally | read other articles in this issue
text © John & Sally McKenna
illustrations © Ken
Buggy

