Restaurant Review

Leslie William's checks out the glamorous new location of Dublin's echt ethic Chinese restaurant, The China House

The big news from the heart of ethnic Dublin (Moore Street) is that the China House has moved to a salubrious (relatively speaking) two-storey premises on Parnell Street.
The new premises have two floors with about seven tables on each level, the menu has lengthened, and the staff seem happier.
The first piece of advice is not to overdo it on the starters, despite the fact that many only cost a Euro (yes €1.00). We ordered Prawn Crackers, Steamed Meat Buns, Chinese Chive Dumplings, Folded Crispy Pancakes with Pork and Chives and Scallion Pancake and each was a generous portion.
Our favourite was the steamed buns which were moist, rich and tasty and next favourite was the folded chive and pork pancake which was savoury and rich while still remaining light and crispy. We couldn't finish the savoury pork pancakes (they must have weighed about six ounces each) despite the sweet pork flavours, and the scallion pancake was a bit like a crispy boxty pancake which was gobbled up by my son.
For mains we were hugely extravagant and ordered a Whole Steamed Fish with ginger and scallions, beautifully presented and perfectly cooked with a light soy based sauce (€15), and a Home Made Fried Pork dish for €7 (on the advice of our waiter).
The pork was a huge plate of stir-fried pork with dried mushrooms, peppers and onions in a savoury sweet and sour style sauce which had a lovely lightness of touch - a world away from the usual gloppy muck served in 90 per cent of Chinese restaurants. The portion was large enough to take some home for lunch the following day.
On past visits I have had excellent crispy duck and good fried rice, but if you are feeling adventurous you should check out some of the more exotic dishes such as Sauté Guts with Tripe, Pigs Ears with Scallions or Jellyfish Skin with Mature Vinegar.
Clientele are mostly Chinese, service is a little erratic but very charming and do try to find a spot upstairs if you can as the strip lighting downstairs is a little harsh.
So €40 got us five starters, two mains, two rice, one Tsingtao beer (€3.50), a Fanta, two large pots of green tea and lunch for two the following day.
Rip off Ireland? No-one told them in The China House.

The China House, 180 Parnell Street, Dublin 1 (opposite Moore St.) Tel: 01 873 3870

Opening Times: 11am - 1am Daily.

Conventional take-away menu also available.

Photos: Leslie Williams