Restaurant Review

Elizabeth Field is underwhelmed by Roly @ the Pavilion

All boded well as we entered the very contemporary new space, done up in dark burgundy and black with striking "architectural" flower arrangements, and divided into several distinct dining areas. After being cordially greeted by our waitress, we eagerly awaited our bottle of Crozes-Hermitage Fleury, which was to tide us through the whole evening.

Our starters came: all looking very pretty indeed on simple white crockery. My confit of duck, arranged on a bed of braised red cabbage, had an agreeable crisp exterior and that initially "grabbing" dark, delicious duck taste. But I soon discovered that it was horribly dried out. Bruce's deep-fried smoky haddock cakes (balls, actually), were overpoweringly salty - a problem (saltiness) that was to cause the ladies at the next table to send their sauteed black sole back. Still no sight of our wine, which appeared only after we asked for it twice more.

Again, the mains were very well presented. (Phil Roberts makes everything on the plate look clean, fresh and attractive, and he seems to run a tight ship, as the pacing was very efficient on a busy night.) My roast pheasant, however, could've been mistaken for one of those dry chicken breasts one gets at the local "bistro," and Bruce's pan-seared sea bass with potatoes and greens in a chive-butter was ruined by over-saltiness again. Vegetables were no great shakes, either.

The restaurant has the very clever idea of presenting only one dessert - a sampling of five little desserts on a big white plate - a portion of which is more than enough for 2. Selections were: a dry ginger sponge with chopped pineapple; cloying meringue case topped with blackberry coulis; thick crème brulée in a cookie case; dark chocolate tart; and vanilla ice cream. This could have been a real gem if the components had been special in themselves.

Maybe it was an off night, since Roly Saul is a seasoned (sorry) pro and his intention is obviously to present fairly priced, contemporary Irish food in a stylish setting. And, it could be that the restaurant is still coming to terms with its very speedy success, and is still in the process of ironing out its system. But, based on our experience, Roly @ the Pavilion needs more culinary TLC to make it a southside destination.

Roly @ the Pavilion,
Pavilion Building,
Queen's Road,
Dun Laoghaire,
Co. Dublin
tel: (01) 236 0286