An American in Paris

James O'Shea isn't a real American, as he hails originally from Kenmare, Co Kerry, though he has lived in the States, in fashionable Litchfield in Connecticut, where he runs the much acclaimed West End Grill, for many years. Here are some of his stray thoughts about a recent trip to Paris.

"I went to Paris to revisit classic bars as well as the new trendier spots, rather than to look at new trends. Trends often begin in places other than where they first become popular: The Spoon Concept, for example, was predated by Thomas Keller in the Napa Valley, in The French Laundry Restaurant, it wasn't something Alain Ducasse conceived.

"I stayed at Relais Carre d'Or, 46 Avenue Georges V, on the corner of the building that houses Pouquets. It's run by Jaques Garcia who is one of the hottest cooks in Paris. He also runs Cafe Ruc, 159 Rue St Honore 75001 and L'Avenue, 41 Avenue Montaigne 75008. There I had roquette au parmesan, a salade of Mixt haricots verts extra fines et champigon - the beans were a tad overcooked, but the French like them like that.

"I found overall there was very little aggressive seasoning, which is a culinary distinction that marks France out as being different from the US.

"The fashionable restaurants in Paris don't have earth shattering food They have a handsome looking crowd, and I love the scene. I don't always put food first, you also want the buzz.

"I like the peasant food of France, and for that we went to L'Assiette Lyonaise, 21 Rue Marboeuf, 75008. The Rue Marboeuf is a very good street for restaurants. We had snails in garlic butter, I liked them 25 years ago and I still like them. The atmosphere was very French, wood panelling, red chequered tableclothes, everything overlit. It fits into our ideas of bistros in the 60's, all waitresses, no waiters.

"We had casoulette of wild mushrooms, which was a little sandy because they don't wash them. Also brandade, mounted high on the plate. I felt the brandade didn't have enough garlic, olive oil or salt. And we had wonderful roast chicken, great charcuterie.

"I had more than my share of bad baguettes whilst there, but we also had some excellent bread too, it must be said.

"We enjoyed Le Dauphin, 167 Rue St Honore, Place Andre Malraux 75001. It's an old old Paris institution that has undergone a food revival, it reopened to great reviews and serves simple Provençal cooking. At first I found the reception to be curt, rather disinterested as to whether you ever came again.

"The room is beautiful, with lovely tile work. Simple bright lights, massive solid wood tables. Classic. The food was terrific. Ragout of artichokes, a ragout with mushrooms, onions, escargot, chopped tomatoes ­ not concasse, chopped ­ black olives. It had huge south west flavours. Wonderful crostini with tapenade.

"We had bass, a cassoulet baked with onions, fish stock, saffron, potatoes, garlic and thyme. The fish was super. Crisped and placed into the cassoulet and baked. It was superb, sensational.

"We loved the chocolate tart, and the orange ice cream.

"Another great restaurant was Le Bouchons De Francoise Clerc, 7 Rue de Boccador, 75008 Paris. He has a revolutionary approach to his wine list. He sells wine for the cost price, plus shopping and taxes. We had an '88 Corton Rouge Latour, Grand Crus for just F235. The preset menu costs 234F plus 25F surcharges. He packs them in."

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text © John & Sally McKenna
illustrations © Ken Buggy