You shall have a fishy...

We tried to get to Pat and Paul O'Connell's smart new fish stall in the Cork Covered Market the other day, but it was no use. The place was mobbed.

People were behaving as if it was a Bay City Rollers concert sometime in 1976, or as if Bill Clinton was in there getting a fillet or two to fry for Hillary's dinner when she knocks off work.

The make over of the stall is beautiful, the audience for the best fish sellers in Ireland bigger than ever. Kay O'Connell would be proud of her boys. Their success is easily explained. "The fish I'm getting has never been better" says Pat O'Connell. "The fishermen are handling it better than ever, it's better handled in the auctions, and all the lorries that transport it are refrigerated". The dynamism of our fishing fleet means that in addition to the "classy stuff" Pat and his brother Paul are able to source from Castletownbere - beautiful john dory, superb turbot and hake "which is exquisite at the moment" ­ there are exotic newcomers from deep waters. These include king fish, mahi-mahi, barracuda, rabbit fish, grass cat, snapper, and gilapia. "I can have it within 24 hours of the fish being caught" said Mr O'Connell, "I'm stunned at how fresh t'would be".

With these deep water fish becoming more available throughout the country, we can at last authenticate the dishes - sushi, bouillabaisse, civiche - that have caught our culinary imagination. "

'Tis too small the world is gettin'", says Pat. Not a problem Pat, not a problem.

O'Connell's Fishmongers, English Market, Cork
Tel: (021) 427 6380