Island Cottage

Certain restaurants and places to stay are such a fundamental part of the area in which they are situated that they are unmissable destinations. Think of Norman Villa in Galway, Shanks in Bangor, Packie's in Kenmare. And think above all of Island Cottage, John Desmond and Ellmary Fenton's sublime restaurant on Heir Island, just off the coast of Skibbereen in West Cork.

Quite simply, if you go to West Cork, then you have to go to Island Cottage.. You just have to take that little boat journey, stroll up the boreen to the cottage, then sit down with 20 or so people who ­ by the end of the boisterous night ­ are all your new best friends.

Mr Desmond's cooking is astonishing in its purity and simplicity. Most recently, the no-choice dinner began with a little duck liver pate on white bread, then a pitch-perfect crab risotto, with a main course of fillet of lamb with a benchmark gratin dauphinoise. Courgettes with wild mushrooms and a jus of lamb juices finished a perfect dish. Gubbeen cheese from Schull is a great Island Cottage tradition, served with green leaf salad, and then a to-die-for baked lemon soufflé. Coffee concludes the night, and then it's down the boreen to the boat again. The totality of the experience is as artistic an event as happens in Irish food. Sublime, and unmissable.

John and Ellmary also feature in our cookery schools article for in the winter, they open Heir Island to classes of two people.

This summer they are also offering an interesting cookery exchange. They are offering the chance for any trained chef to come to Heir Island and cook with John in the kitchen.

All accommodation will be provided, and John hopes to teach the skills of his island cookery, whilst learning from his pupil.

Visit their website to apply. Look out also for upcoming articles by John and Ellmary in future Megabytes..

Website: www.islandcottage.com