The Greening of the Tea

The pivotal question, when you are touring the country on holiday, chilling out, and taking in the sights, is this:

Where does the smart local money go to find the best restaurant food?

Well, in Galway, all the smart local money makes its way down to the Spanish Arch, and to Harriet Leander's marvellous Nimmo's. This is, in effect, a wine bar, with a menu chalked on a board each day, but who cares about the informality and the (exceptionally pleasing) rigmaroll arrangement of the rooms; the buzz is electric, the Galway crowd are cool, and the cooking is right on the money for easy, summertime eating.
Great fish soup which is nicely spiced. Excellent salads with good leaves, simple boeuf bourguignon with potatoes, nice vegetarian dishes like aubergine bake,and an excellent wine list with lots of Spanish beauties courtesy of Rafael Alvarez's inspiring Approach Wine Trade. Brilliant atmosphere and, yep, Nimmo's hoovers up the smart local ­ and the informed traveller's ­ money.

Nimmo's, Spanish Arch, Galway
Tel: 091-561114

Down in Kenmare, meantime, the smart money makes its way to Mulcahy's, on Henry Street, for some very intense and smartly-realised modern Irish cooking. Whilst Bruce Mulcahy might be a cheffy cook, he is also a subtle cook, as evidenced by excellent john dory with oven roasted tomatoes and mussel cream; some knock-out potato croquettes, and very subtle roasted scallops with leek and red grapes. Whatever you do, don't miss the lemon tart with Amaretto cream: it's benchmark, and to prove that he is as hip as all get out, Mr Mulcahy features the year's hottest food, green tea, in a green tea anglaise served with a light pannacotta. Great, funky room with whacky décor, and elegant service. Yep, that'll do nicely too.

Mulcahy's, Henry Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry
Tel: 064-42383