WINETLK ()=(

The Wine? Le Chant de Marjolaine 1999

Who's it For? Wine buffs who want to show what arcane knowledge they are party to, also ordinary decent folk who love slinky, sexy reds just like this and who just want to party.

What's it Like? A serene smoothness is its secret: drinking this is easier than scoring goals against Saudi Arabia. Above all, it is beautifully rounded, and tastes like a whole lot more dough than you actually have to pay.

Brief me: 100% Carignan grape, so real queer gear, which explains why it is designated only a Vins de Pay even though it is a ravishing wine. Organically produced and made by Jean-Marie Rimbert of Domaine Rimbert, who also make the cult Saint-Chinian Le Mas Au Schiste (ho, ho!)

The wherewithal? €14.50 from Bubble Brothers, English Market, Cork

What else can I say? :-)

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