Sally & Sam McKenna go for a slice of PI

We hope that the relaunch of PI, an 18-month-old space on Cork's Washington Street, brings this beautiful space the success it deserves, and it has an excellent chance in having the acclaimed cooking skills of Sally Walker, who has been newly appointed to direct the kitchen.

Sally Walker is a name we have been looking out for for years, ever since the closure of The Stepping Stone Restaurant in Caherdaniel, County Kerry, where Sally's work alongside Helena O'Connor and Stephen McIlroy wowed every one with some unbelievably delicious food, and superbly clever design. There were tears in Caherdaniel when they closed and went their separate ways. Hell, they were crying in London and New York, so far did the reputation of this team travel.

But this excellence was certainly not in evidence on yesterday's visit to P I (Sally was not cooking - Monday is her day off). A light lunch for myself and six-year-old Sam produced alarmingly soggy chips for himself, and some very dried out chicken for me in a filled ciabatta. But the worst element of the restaurant was the service - a wait person who believed her sole purpose in the room was to fold napkins (with her back to the room), and a manager on duty who thought her role was to sit talking on the phone. Thank God they had very few customers.

Sally Walker has an uphill struggle, but we're confident she can do it, and will keep you posted.

BC Courthouse Chambers, Washington Street, Cork
Tel: (021) 422 2860