Food and Wines of Piedmont

Piedmont is in the far North East of Italy, at the foothills of the alps. It includes the famous wine town of Asti and the truffle territory of Alba. Its capital is Turin, where Slow Food's Salone da Gusto was held over 4 days. From a hugely rich cuisine, blessed by a suitable climate which produces rich milk and also gives them extraordinary foods such as the wildly expensive black and white truffles, Piedmont specialises in some of the following: Cheese Bra ­ named after a comunity in southern Piedmont, this cheese is made in rounds and it can be soft when young, firmer when aged beyond six months. As an aged cheese it's piquant flavour makes it an ideal grating cheese. Castelmagno ­ this ancient variety of cheese is the best of the local cheeses. It's made from cow's milk, though some producers add the milk from sheep or goat. It is a crumbly cheese that is always distinctive, whatever length of time it is aged. Murazzano ­ A cheese made from a mix of sheep and cow, made in small disks. A delicate, very fine cheese. Raschera ­ An alpine cheese, noted for its strong flavour. Robiola di Rocca Verano ­ a fresh, uncooked cheese produced in the province of Asti and Alessandria. Toma Piemontese ­ Aged in caves or other suitable settings, this well balanced cheese is low in fat and served quite young, it is never aged longer than 60 days.

Rice

Piedmont has about 5,000 producers of risotto rice, growing Arborio and the related Baldo as well as the legendary Carnaroli, Sant'Andrea and Vialone Nano. The provinces to the west of Piedmont are sometimes known as the "Terre d'Acqua" because the land is covered with a film of water for extended periods of the year.

Preserved Meat

Piedmont leads the country in the production of its famous preserved meats. Some of these varieties are world famous ­ mortadella, cotechino sausages, pancetta, cured ham, but a trip to the region reveals many others, with the most memorable being "Lardo" pure cured bacon fat which is sliced very thin and served with crostini. It is truly superb, with the best varieties made with great care and aged in marble casks. The various salames are also superb, particularly "Salado" and "Soppressa". If you see the delicious thin sausage "Salamella" on a restaurant menu in Italy, make sure to order it.

Wines

The grape varieties grown in Piedmont are: Arneis, Barbera, Brachetto, Cortese, Dolcetto, Erbaluce, Favorita, Freisa, Grignolino, Malvasia di Casorzo, Moscato Bianco, and Nebbiolo. Of these, it is with Nebbiolo that Piedmont has made her name, for the grape is used to make the province's two greatest wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. These are made in the Langhe hills around Alba, and both are serious red wines, and in the hands of great winemakers they can be amongst the most sublime drinks on the planet. But, for everyday drinking, the Piedmontese go for Dolcetto and Barbera, both very good grapes which make approachable wines. The two regions best known for wine making are Asti (home of what can be a very good, light, sparkling wine) and Alba, famous for its truffles.

email John and Sally | read other articles in this issue

text © John & Sally McKenna
illustrations © Ken Buggy