Tough

Toughest gig in Irish food right now? Getting a table in Zuni, in Kilkenny, that's what. Kilkenny locals have so taken this beautiful restaurant, bar and boutique hotel to their hearts that the dining room is permanently packed with locals.

What's to love? Well, it's a delightful space, for starters, especially the bar, which manages to be groovy and yet understated. The dining room marries great service with very smart, modern food: Thai crab cakes with oven-dried tomatoes and coriander are spot-on; barbary duck with apple mash and a cassis jus is smart and confident; polenta and blackberry cake is very good indeed.

But Zuni works because all the elements are right: good food; good fun; good value; good service, and the rooms are comfortable (though they could do with some more paintings), and the location is great.

Best of all, it is a true local place, with the inimitable energy of hip Kilkenny folk. Just book early.

26 Patrick Street, Tel: (056) 23999 Website: www.zuni.ie