Jumping Ginger

The last high-profile chef to leave that old-time favourite restaurant, Nick's Warehouse in Belfast, was Michael Deane, opening first a restaurant in Helen's Bay and then the Gothically furnished mega-buck-mega-space Deane's in the middle of Belfast with much hype, and, of course, more than a fair deal of success.
Simon McCance also adds a stint at Nick's to his CV, but he winces when asked if he has the same focus as Michael Deane for the raw space that is his new restaurant ­ Ginger. "If I hadn't called it Ginger, it would have been called simply 'Food'" he says, emphasising his priorities: the space is sparse - huge pictures of accordian players on otherwise bare walls, plain tables with pepper pots courtesy of Shwartz. There are no menus ­ just a pair of blackboards, no wine lists, in fact no wine ­ this is a BYO.

Food is what it's all about and the food is great: thai-style squid over a sensational warm tomato and onion salad which is stir-fried first in a wok; a crab salad, highlighted with the flavours of mustard and mango, spiced with a ginger syrup; loin of lamb, cooked simply with a leek and tomato sauce on a good mash; butternut fritter with parsnip chips; a salad of mozzarella, roasted peppers, avocado, pesto and toasted pine nuts. Desserts are almost savoury and all the better for it: roasted plums with mascarpone cheese and praline; warm chocolate brownie with a butterscotch sauce. Everything comes on the plate - no sides. You see the chef at work, listen to the music of James Brown and, since it opened, the place is almost literally jumping. Full every night with a fired up atmosphere of people enjoying themselves in this most unpretentious of places. Don't miss it. Ginger, 217 Ormeau Road, Belfast tel: (028) 9040 3143

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text © John & Sally McKenna
illustrations © Ken Buggy