Recipe of the Month

Dinosaurs and Desserts

Illustration shows Strawberry and Pink Champagne Jelly from Gordon Ramsay's "Just Desserts" (Quadrille £25stg)

He's a bit of a dinosaur, old Gordon Ramsay, isn't he? All that macho, cheffy behaviour. All that "there's-a-battle-going-on-in-here" kitchen bravado. All that Pay Attention To Me! egotism. Marco Pierre White did it all before Ramsay, of course, and he was just as boring about it. Why can't these guys just stick to their pots and pans and give their egos a rest? But, if it's easy to be put off by Ramsay's crazy solipsism, we still have to acknowledge that the man knows how to cook good food, and his newest book on desserts, "Gordon Ramsay's Just Desserts" (boy, they must have worked overtime to come up with that original title!) has lots of precious, clever ideas in amidst all that grandstanding, 3-star cheffy stuff. We need to remember that Ramsay was, first and foremost, a patissier himself, and the sheer confidence and correctness of a chef with a scintillating sweet tooth shines through here; this is Ramsay's best book so far, and it's certain to have a major influence. Just look at this simple and smart Bananas in Caramel Rum Syrup, which turns nursery food into something special, and he's man who knows just how to handle a banana.

Clever. So, we'll forgive him, for about as long as it takes to eat this. But no longer.

Bananas in Caramel Rum Syrup

Serves 4

150g caster sugar
230ml water
juice of 1 lemon
2-3 tablespoons white rum or Malibu
1 vanilla pod
2 star anise
4 large, just ripe bananas

1. Put the sugar and 2 tablespoons of the water in a large shallow pan over a gentle heat, stirring once or twice until dissolved. When the sugar syrup is clear, raise the heat and cook to a light caramel, about 5 minutes.

2. Immediately remove from the heat, cool for 2 minutes then stir in the lemon juice, taking care as it will spit a little. Mix in the rum or Malibu and remaining 200ml water. Slit the vanilla pod lengthways and add to the syrup with the whole spices.

3. Peel the bananas and halve lengthways. Place in a single layer in the pan and spoon the caramel syrup over to coat them all over; this also prevents the bananas from discolouring.

4. Leave to macerate for 40 minutes before serving. A flavoured crème fraiche, such as lemon grass or ginger (see book for recipes) is a nice complement.

Gordon Ramsay's Just Desserts (Quadrille £25 stg.)