Wine of the Month

"Wine selected by Paddy Keogh" it proclaims proudly on the rear label of the 2000 Bergerie de L'Hortus Classique. And well it might. Whilst wine writers such as Jancis Robinson have recently been saying that these wines from Pic St Loup in the Languedoc "truly belong in the greater world of wine", Mr Keogh put his money where his nose was several years back when he first introduced the l'Hortus reds, whites and rosés onto his list and began to bring them to the greater world of Irish wine lovers.

His foresight has been rewarded by one of the best, most consistent and enjoyable, wines on the Wines Direct list, and the 2000 white is a stormer. This is one of those wines where you always look forward to tasting the new vintage, and the 2000 Classique (list price £8.40) is almost decadent, it's so plump and opulent, kind of Sophie Dahl in liquid form.

It's a treat to drink now, and a great more-please! aperitif wine, thanks to its crispness. But there is lots of promise here: if you can restrain yourself, hold onto some of this for a couple of years, and let the subtleties begin to uncoil and mesmerise.

Website: www.wines-direct.com