Which duo is cooler than Reuven Diaz and Jeni Glasgow, the owners of Eastern Seaboard, Mo's To Go and Brown Hound? There is no competition: Diaz and Glasgow are the coolest him 'n' her on the block right now, which is why you have to wait a fortnight to get a weekend table at the ES.
They stacked the odds against themselves when they opened, pitting a recession and a seemingly unpromising location against their success. But they have taste, and taste is what everyone wants in these tough times, and the good taste shows in the style, and especially in Mr Diaz's food: smoked eel risotto with coral scallop butter; pig cheek terrine with apple and cleric slaw; venison with game chips; coffee jelly and vanilla ice cream. The food is knowing and smart, but it's never self-conscious, and even simple things, like the Bellingham Blue Burger, are brought to high-end achievement. Similarly, Mo's and Brown Hound are high-end achievements, where simple things are done as well as they can be done, and are done beautifully. Drogheda has gotten awful lucky.
