Global Village may be the sort of name for a restaurant that suggests that you will encounter a globalised cuisine hailing from all the corners of the earth. In fact, Martin Bealin and Nuala Cassidy’s Global Village in Dingle is a food destination devoted to local foods, in particular inshore fish and local, sustainable meats, with the names of the farmers who rear the beef and lamb used actually written on the blackboard. It’s a comfortable, white tablecloth room, with comfortable, hugely enjoyable cooking, from the selection of oysters – with blue cheese ice cream! – to the duck broth to the very fine fish cookery to the excellent beef served with rosti potatoes, which both Sam and PJ McKenna ordered as their main course and which both of them demolished in double-quick time. Plating is elegant and considered, with the dishes looking artful on large, square plates and with little white jugs used for sauces, but there is nothing stuffy about the room or the service, and all the McKennas had a thoroughly wonderful dinner on our last trip, enjoying splendid food in a splendid place.
