So there is poor old Seamus Commons, having to cook for a big band of starred chefs from Europe who are having a tour of Mayo: a daunting challenge, for there is no species of human more critical, and self-critical, than a starry chef. So, Seamus fires out the food, helped by his team and, in particular, the brilliant young Mary Ryan – the tasting of prawns; the seared scallops with chorizo aioli, the sea bass with fennel doughnut, the lobster with samphire and gold leaf; the foie gras with cardamon jelly, the tasting of lamb with Kelly’s black pudding, the lemon meringue with almonds And what does the La Fougere team get from the starry chefs for all their hard work...
Well, a standing ovation, actually, and a lot of puzzlement from the chefs as to why Mr Commons isn’t showered with stars and sharing stages with Rene and Ferran. Because that is where Mr Commons belongs: he is one of the great contemporary Irish talents, and the good news is that he continues to innovate, and continues to get better. The food in Knockranny has been pared back slightly, and is all the better for it: an unmissable destination.
