Colin, Michael and Seáneen, the blessed trinity behind L. Mulligan Grocer, are blessed indeed. Their iconoclastic approach to running a pub with mighty food and brilliant drinks has created a whole new template of how to work with food and drink, and their devotees are devoted: the culinary faithful, eager to study Mulligan’s catechism of great grub. ‘Long live L. Mulligan Grocer!’ says Caroline Byrne, with exclamation marks flying.
It’s that kind of place: indifference doesn’t come into it, certainly not when you slather some butter flavoured with locally foraged wild garlic onto some fab soda bread, or have your very first taste of their brilliant bangers and mash with O’Hara’s stout gravy. The cooking, says Caroline, ‘rocks the socks off most of its rivals – the food, the drink, the people and the craic are mighty indeed in this pub.’ So don’t miss the black pudding and rhubarb relish, don’t miss sampling an array of Irish craft beers with rib-eye steak with Connemara whiskey butter, and don’t worry your little head that we so regret that L. Mulligan wasn’t there when we lived just around the corner on Halliday Square.
