Pascal Rossignol is a polished kind of a guy, and yet there is something about him that is unambiguously feral, something wild. It should come as no surprise, then, that he is a champion of “natural” winemaking, that crossroads of viticulture that is currently the most contentious zone that the wine world has seen in many years. He imports wines from the likes of Frantz Saumon, Sicily's Anna Martens, Nicolas Renaud, and Thierry Puzelat. Their wines are remarkable, in a very literal sense; you cannot taste them and be unmoved: they are wild things, and one can see why Pascal Rossignol admires them and sells them. But they aren't the only things he sells, for the tiny Le caveau is filled with great wines, chosen with fastidious discrimination and amazing knowledge, and sold ith great charm by Pascal and Geraldine. A jewel of a place.