Some people have crazy lives simply because they don’t understand craziness. Restaurateurs, for example, have crazy lives, but don’t recognise them as such. If they did, then they wouldn’t do what Sebastian and Kirsten of Pearl Brasserie did: slowly build your restaurant into one of the best in the city and – then – open another restaurant, and start the whole process once again. Nuts! No doubt about it. But then if we apply that criterion, Danny Meyer is the craziest guy in New York, and Alain Ducasse the most cuckoo cook in Europe. But here’s the thing about Locks Restaurant, Seb and Kirsten’s new venture: it opened and got running so smoothly as to be almost miraculous.
Great food, great crew, great reviews, great custom, bang! bang! bang! bang! ‘Locks is everything we’d expect from this crew’, says Caroline Byrne, just one voice amidst a torrent of praise for Rory Carvill’s cooking (‘Magical’ said Ross Golden-Bannon in Food & Wine). So, consider this entry as a twofer: Pearl Brasserie & Locks Restaurant, brothers in excellence, run by crazy brilliant people who make Dublin a better place for all of us.
