Tamar Adler's great cookery book is entitled An Everlasting Meal. Significantly, its subtitle is “Cooking with economy and grace”. Both titles suit Louise Kennedy and Stephen Gault's food in the pretty, bistro-ish space of The Silver Apple.
The Silver Apple is up the stairs, above Rafferty's bar, for whom Ms Kennedy also supplies the food – good chicken wings, paninis, big burgers, good coffees – and she has a lovely range of her pates and preserves for sale in Kate's Kitchen, in the centre of town. Upstairs in the bistro, Ms Kennedy showcases the classics – Killybegs smokies; Lissadell mussels; chicken chasseur; moules frites; Cumberland sausages and mash; Catalan fish stew – to which she brings her own spin, her own grace and economy. The menus and wine list are adroit and concise: what's here is what is needed, with nothing superfluous, nothing silly, just an artful understanding of the dignity and value of good food, and its economy and grace.
Open 5pm-10pm Wed-Sun (early bird 5pm-7pm). Open 7 nights in July and August.
